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Alaska –Coldfoot – Gates of the Arctic NP – State 18 of 49

  • Writer: Eric & Lora Benz
    Eric & Lora Benz
  • Aug 5, 2018
  • 7 min read

Updated: Jan 7, 2019

If you are a first-time reader, welcome to Lora and Erics RV Adventure Blog. You can read about us at http://www.LoraandEricsRVAdventure.com. We started in December 2017 with a goal to complete 49 states before heading home to North Carolina.


Due to limited access to internet service and Verizon Hotspot in Canada and Alaska we will be adding photos as we can. In the mean time we will continue to provide our RV adventure at each phase of our RV adventure in text.

It is Lora's birthday. She is a whopping 59 years old. I let her sleep in on her birthday, since we do not have to leave for St. Matthew's Church to meet with Mother Betty till 11:00 am. All I have for her is a card I had gotten when I went gold prospecting the other day.


Lora eventually got up around 8:00 am and started to pick up the carpets. Today we leave for Dalton Highway with our goal of driving past the Artic Circle and into Coldfoot, Ak.


The drive from Riverview RV Park in North Pole, AK to Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Marion Creek Campground in Coldfoot, AK is 7 hrs 30 minutes (274 miles) via Hwy 11.


The next few days is expected to be poor weather. The region issued a severe weather alert for Sunday night into Monday with rain expected up to 2 1/2 in, which is extreme for this part of the state.


Lora and I pack up the camper. When doing so, the neighbor next door is curious about our camper and the size of it as being a travel trailer. We give her a tour of the inside and then later for her husband. They are living in Alaska camping with their grandchild who is playing soccer in a nearby tournament. The husband is retired military and his wife is a former teacher now babysitter for the grandchildren by desire. We exchange stories and of our adventure present and ahead of us.


We leave for St. Matthew's Church just after 10:30 am. I return the bathroom key to the office and confirm availability of sites next week when we return. The night before I fill up the fuel at the gas station at to the campground.


We make it St. Matthew's by 11:00 am. We are greeted by Mother Betty, her Admin Jesica, and parishioner Lucy. Lucy has her small poodle with her. We bring Belle Bee and they are instant friends. So cool.


We open the camper and give everyone the grand tour. We leave Bella Bee and the other dog with the Admins daughter to play in the hall.


We get on the road a little before noon. We easily make our way out of Fairbanks heading north. We pass by the wayside stop for the Alaska Pipeline and Two Daughters Gold Panning.


We start heading up hills rolling deeper into the vast wilderness. The journey from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay is roughly 11 1/2 hours. Prudhoe Bay is the northern most town with road access in Alaska and where you can take a tour to get your feet wet in the Arctic Ocean. If we had time and better weather we would be trying to get to Prudhoe Bay, but with weather sketchy and Lora's dentist appointment on Wednesday we will return Sunday most likely.


About one hour into our drive we approach a road stoppage for road work. As we approach there is a hiker heading north. He puts his thumb out just before we pass. We decide to stop and ask him how far the is going. We offer him a ride as far as Coldfoot. He is heading a few more miles north the Gates of the Arctic National Park to hike off trail.


Blake is from Missouri, 21 year old, 2nd year as a guide in Alaska for the Boy Scout's. He is an avid hiker and outdoors-man. He takes the groups on 2-week wilderness hike and kayaking. During the rest of the year he is in school getting a degree in Education focus on teens and high school students. Bella Bee was in love having a companion in the back seat.


The scenery was nothing like the lower portion of Alaska. There were rolling mountains as far as the eye can see. The Alaska Pipeline run along the road zig zagging its way through the spruce trees and hills. At times the pipeline will disappear into the mountain side and pop out the other side. Other times the pipeline climbs the steep mountain and meanders its ways zig zagging back down.


The road up to Dalton Highway is all paved. The biggest issue is the dips in the road from permafrost softening underneath. We are always having to maneuver or slow down for dips. As soon as we past the intersection the road transitions to gravel. The gravel road is not too bad. Certain areas are wash board roads making the truck vibrate like mad. If not wash board, it is pot holes. Some sections are much worse than others. Speed is normally 25 mph, but in a few small sections the road is good enough for 50 mph, but rare. Semi's drive like they own the road. We come across sections of paved road along the way, but they are worse than the gravel. Filled with pot holes, dips and sunken sides the camper is getting the hardest challenge to date.


Blake is a great guest. He is very knowledgeable of the outdoors. We pass by bikers riding up the Dalton Highway. Blake rode a bike around Hawaii just after the recent volcano eruption.


We stop a couple of times for the bathroom. During one of our Bella Bee pee breaks, Lora inspects the camper. We need to open the sides. The fireplace is half unscrewed and ready to fall. I find a screw on the ground to an unknown place. I re-screwed the fireplace and place gorilla tape on 3 sides to keep on place. I will fix it after we return to Fairbanks. The couch and some sun catches are moved around. All else is secure.


As for the outside, the dirt accumulated is amazing. We take pictures of the dirt collected on the truck and camper.


We stop at the Yukon River Visitor Center. The ranger (volunteer) gives us valuable information on camping in Coldfoot and information Blake needs for his hike.


We get a few photos of the Yukon River and its history before driving across the street to fill the fuel tank. We've used half a tank of fuel. We can make it to our destination on one tank with a few miles to spare, but do not chance it. Coldfoot is the only other gas station on our route. There are 4 places to fill up along the way and that's it. To get help here is only by chance of someone passing. No cell phone service anywhere. Luckily Blake has a satellite phone.


The views are the best we have ever seen. If the day sky was all blue it would be spectacular. The zig zagging pipeline and winding road over mountains as far as the eye can see.


We reach the Arctic Circle and stop for some photos.


We stop at Fingers Point where granite formation come magically out of the earth.


Our truck is incredibly filthy. Caked mud on the sides and front of the camper.


At some views it feels like were towering at high elevations, but we are only between 800 ft to 2000 ft. The spruce are no longer dominant in the hillsides. The hills have what looks like sand but is a dirty white moss.


We stop a few more times for Bella Bee. She is making her whine noise. Only per, so must be she is hungry. Its 3 hours past her eating time.


We reach Coldfoot Visitors Center. The site is new. Rather nice. The rangers talk with Blake one hiking the region. I get Lora and I our Certificate to signifying we made it to the Arctic Circle.


Blake completed his orientation in quick form and we drive 5 miles up to BLM Marion Creek Campground. The site has a host. The cost is $8.00 per night. 50% with and interagency pass. The sites are back-in and large pull thru sites. Each have a fire pit and picnic table. We are at site 24. They have new pit toilets and a water station with a priming pump to get water.


We find our spot and set up camp. We convince Blake to hang out the night and leave in the morning.


We run the generators to make ice for Lora. After a bit a woman comes asking if we can shut them off soon. It pisses off Lora inside. We have a great time conversing with Blake. He is such a great kid. We have a good fire going, and we place our stew on the grate above the fire. We cook on the fire while talking and having a great time.


A camper from a tent next door screams to "keep it down already, its 11 o'clock.' We lost total track of time. We stayed up for another hour before we called it a night, while it was still sunny out.


The next morning we let Blake sleep in. He says he was so comfortable sleeping on the couch. We take Blake up to road to The Gates of the Arctic National Park. We say our goodbyes and get our last pictures before departing. We drive up the road more but turn around after the scenery is covered by clouds. We stop at the Visitors Center and visit the small displays. We stop at Coldfoot Camp and purchase diesel.


Coldfoot Camp is known for its remote location at mile 175 of the Dalton Highway. Coldfoot Camp is base for a variety of activities in this remote region of Alaska. Coldfoot Camp offers Lodging, Restaurant, and Bar year-round. The Gates of the Arctic National Park and the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge are two of the more famous points of interest in the surrounding Brooks Range wilderness that can easily be accessed from Coldfoot Camp, at Coldfoot, Alaska.


We head back to the campground and hang out around the fire before retiring for the evening.


The next morning is scattered rain. We pack up and drive to Coldfoot Camp for breakfast. The food was great. A meal made for a true trucker. The omelet Lora ordered was the largest we have ever seen. We finished our meal and hit the road back to North Pole.


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